More Sagres

14/7/13

The first break came when we hit Praia da Luz (beach of light?), a beach village on the way to Sagres. The coastline was beautiful and the village itself seemed relatively unspoiled. We had lunch in an historical building that was a Fort that dates back to the 15 th century. The place was actually occupied by the Romans before that but this building wasn't that old.

During the 15th and 16 th centuries, the Moors looted the coast from their pirate ships. The locals would seek refuge inside these forts which were pretty pirate proof. The king of Portugal, D. João IV, built a large number of similar forts along the coast...they were built high in the cliff edge, and a lot of risk and trouble was taken to make sure the rotten pirates were kept out.

The young waiter was very forthcoming with info when I asked about the building, and gave me an old menu with some information on it. What a great souvenir!

We arrived at Sagres in the afternoon...or was it evening? It's such a long day, one blends into the other. What a cute little town set on the cliff tops...literally on 'the edge'. The Romans used to think this was the end of the world, and the sun set into the sea everyday with a 'hiss'. There are forts as mentioned above...one really big one that we didn't feel like going into...to be honest we are a bit full to the brim of history and historical sights with queues and tourists. There is a really lovely lighthouse...the old fashioned kind with a lighthouse keeper and all.

 It is a surfers town, so there are a few surf shops, and the cafes are focused on 'chillin out', healthy foods, and other surfie activities. We haven't yet seen any surf, surfers, surfboards or sunshine. The cloud cover and wind has made it really chilly. The people are really laid back and earthy, so different from the Spanish...how does that happen? We like it here.

On the downside, the amenities are a little archaic, and people don't seem to have lateral thinking and problem solving skills. Some very different, but subtle, cultural differences we are starting to figure out. 

We had dinner at a little place with grandpa at the outdoor grill, daughter in the kitchen and grandson kicking the soccer ball around on the cobblestones. The food was gorgeous. Tony had squid. Tony has had squid at least twice a day since we got into missile range of Portugal...cooked in every way it can be cooked, even ordering second helpings. To be honest, I don't mind if I never see another squid...dead that is...for the rest of my days.

14/7/13

We spent the night last night on the edge of a cliff...so quiet and beautiful. I have woken up this morning with a sore head due to the one too many caprinhas last night, and alas we have had to use the motorhome dunny for the first time. Ew. Bags not emptying it. But I probably will.

We plan to stay here until we see some surf and sun, so could be 'chillin' for a while.

We nearly gave up on sunshine when the sun came out at around lunchtime. The beach was protected from the wind, and glorious. alas, didn't have a camera with me. The water was crystal clear and hardly a ripple. There were large populations of mussels on the rocks and cliffs, and plenty of bird life. It's truly lovely. There are sea birds that look like seagulls on steroids, eagles, peregrines, and others I don't know the name of...We need Liz here. We lazed in the sun, and popped back to the van for lunch and a nap.

We decided to sleep 'rough' again tonight...much to Suzys disgust...she needs to charge phone and wash hair of course. Bad luck.

The clouds came across again and the wind had a real chill. We found a restaurant called 'mum's' which had a delicious looking menu...lots of wholesome home cooked foods with veges and fruit etc. Reminded me of dinner at the Molinaro's...lotsa love and nourishment. We had dinner there...it was really slow paced, and we waited in the cold wind for about 20 mins for them to clear a table for us, then waited to get menus...then waited long time for drinks...but it was all worth it. Had my first taste of an 'ok' port...if that was 'ok' then spectacular will launch us into outer space. Can't wait to get to Porto. Hic.

15/7/13

This morning was cool, cloudy and windy. We contacted Daphne and arranged to meet her here tomorrow. We have had a 'nothing day' of washing clothes and emptying and filling various tanks. We had lunch at grandpas BBQ again, Tony had squid. Again. He can't wait to take Daphne there today. squid is on the days specials. 😤

Tonight is really cold and windy...a real arctic wind has started blowing and we are rugged up like we are in Maleny not Portugal.  Luckily we bought some warm cardigans from a street vendor at the fortress the other day. They were a godsend. 

We had dinner at an Italian place that warmed our bellies, and then of course Tony went out drinking in the bars in town after much conflict...apparently I am old before my time because I don't want to drink all night surrounded by 20 year old German backpackers. Maybe I am. My head is thanking me this morning even though I polished off a bottle of Pinot Grigio. His head looks like its been in a tumble drier. He drank alone as no one wants to talk to the weird old guy. Poor Tony.😪

View from our home on the hill.

Our home on the hill.