Mercury in retrograde

We decided we had hung around Sagres long enough. We started the morning of our departure with a swim at our beach. The sun was shining and the cove was well sheltered from the chilly northerly that had been taunting us for the last few days. The water was so cold, after about fifteen seconds my immersed legs were aching and I couldnt feel my feet. Out true purpose was to wee, as we were avoiding using the van toilet. So we really had no choice but to go in. I will never again complain about the water in winter at home. The swim made the cold north wind feel like a summer breeze after all.

As lovely as it was, we resigned ourselves to the fact that the Antarctic is a cold and eerie ocean, and the sea around these parts is not ever going to be the Pacific, nor the Mediterranean. And nor do we expect it to be. But I did have visions of long walks on the beach watching the sun go down over the ocean and lazing around in the sun in secluded little coves, but its not going to fit in with those plans. We wanted to drive around the headland and watch the sunset on the last afternoon as the clouds had gone, but we knew we would lose our prime spot in the wild camping area...not a lot of level ground here which makes sleeping a struggle.
It's lovely and picturesque, there's no doubt. The people are in the main very warm. But it's cold, and wild. We stopped off at a beach on our way north called Odeceixe. It was so beautiful, it was breathtaking. There was a little cafe on the hill where we stopped for a coffee and a look at the beach. It really reminded me of northern new south wales before it was ruined, along with some craggy cliffs. A swim would have been just the thing, but even in the sunshine there was an eerie cold mist rolling in from the sea and the cool air was uninviting. Even though you could get a good tan in the sun, the exposed beach was not the place to be. The Portuguese didn't mind it and there was a surf school in progress. They didn't have wet suits which made me shudder.
The next beach stop was Vila nova de Milfontes. This too was lovely, with an old medieval fort on the shore of the river, and a lovely beach with seafood cafes. The water here too was effing freezing, and so we had a refresh, and headed onward. The rest of the day was spent driving northward, and we knew we were missing lots, but decided we wanted to fast track to Spain, and perhaps Mediterranean warmth.
18/7/13
MERCURY IN RETROGRADE
Apparently, astrologically speaking, when Mercury is in retrograde, things go annoyingly, but not fatally, pear shaped. Mercury has been doing its retrograde thing for a few weeks now. We can't ignore it. Lost, then found, things, bad directions from the Tom Tom, communication breakdowns, taxis not turning up, getting lost, it's a whole other blog. We arrived in Aviero late last night and Mercury continues its backward movement in the heavens.
Another day another campground. The first campground the tom tom directed us to was a car park in a dirty industrial area. the next one was real, but €53 a night. All the usual...BYO toilet paper, don't put the toilet paper in the toilet,(ew), press button shower that takes a whole cycle to warm up, then turns off. Taxi to the local restaurants, food ordinary and expensive, and the taxi decided not to get us afterward as we were too far from where the action was. The long walk was needed, though. It helped the unappetizing meal go down...but hey...the wine was spectacular.
The campground was set in the dunes on a gorgeous beach. No waves though. Hard to believe a guy just rode the biggest wave in the world just south of here at Nazarre...90 feet apparently. Seems it is a place of extremes.
This morning, after Tonys wallet, but not Suzys earphones, was found, we decided to head off into the town of Aviero for a coffee and hopefully some wifi...abysmally missing from the most expensive campground in Europe...to help us plan the next leg. We hope to get up to Porto, apparently a nice place, with lots of port. Look out here we come. Will keep you posted.

Daphne does some hand clothes washing.

Odeceixe.

Aveiro.